The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Gardens
Every 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered train arrives at a spray-painted station. Nearby, a police siren pierces the near-constant traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds form.
This is maybe the last place you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But one local grower has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with round mauve berries on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just above Bristol town centre.
"I've seen individuals concealing heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He's organized a loose collective of cultivators who produce wine from four discreet urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and allotments across the city. It is sufficiently underground to have an formal title so far, but the collective's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.
City Wine Gardens Across the World
To date, the grower's allotment is the sole location listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming world atlas, which features more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the hillsides of the French capital's renowned Montmartre area and more than three thousand vines with views of and within the Italian city. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the forefront of a initiative reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has discovered them throughout the globe, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens assist cities stay more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. These spaces protect land from construction by creating permanent, productive agricultural units within cities," explains the association's president.
Like all wines, those created in cities are a product of the earth the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the people who care for the fruit. "A bottle of wine represents the beauty, local spirit, environment and history of a city," adds the spokesperson.
Mystery Eastern European Grapes
Back in the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to gather the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting abandoned in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the precipitation comes, then the birds may seize their chance to feast again. "This is the mystery Polish grape," he comments, as he cleans damaged and rotten berries from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they are certainly hardy. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you don't have to spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Activities Across the City
The other members of the group are also making the most of bright periods between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace with views of the city's glistening harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty vines. "I love the aroma of these vines. It is so evocative," she says, stopping with a container of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the vehicle windows on holiday."
Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already survived three different owners," she says. "I really like the idea of environmental care – of passing this on to someone else so they can continue producing from this land."
Terraced Gardens and Traditional Production
Nearby, the final two members of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has cultivated over one hundred fifty vines perched on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a city street."
Currently, Scofield, 60, is harvesting bunches of deep violet dark berries from rows of vines slung across the cliff-side with the help of her child, her family member. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbour's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce interesting, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for upwards of seven pounds a glass in the growing number of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually create quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very fashionable, but in reality it's reviving an old way of making wine."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the natural microorganisms come off the surfaces and enter the liquid," says Scofield, ankle deep in a container of small branches, pips and crimson juice. "That's how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers add preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a lab-grown culture."
Difficult Conditions and Inventive Solutions
A few doors down active senior Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to establish her vines, has gathered his companions to harvest white wine varieties from one hundred vines he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to Europe. But it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to produce Burgundian wines in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits Reeve with a smile. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."
"My goal was creating European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only challenge encountered by winegrowers. The gardener has been compelled to install a fence on